VERACRUZ

Mexico’s least-visited great state, and very good at it. The anthropology museum in Xalapa sets its Olmec colossal heads, some of the oldest monumental sculpture in the Americas, in an open, light-filled building. El Tajín’s Pyramid of the Niches rises out of vanilla country near Papantla, where the Totonac voladores still perform. Coatepec, in the hills, grows some of the country’s best coffee. In early February, Tlacotalpan fills with son jarocho for the Candelaria festival.